Heim joints for steering?
#1
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Year: 1999
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Heim joints for steering?
So I'm gana build my own steering setup and have heard of some people running heim joints instead of ball joints. Anyone else doing this? Benefits? Downfalls? I have a little car to drive around so my jeep isn't really a DD, although I do like to drive it around town from time to time. Lemme know
Thanks,
Zach
Thanks,
Zach
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get the heim's from Rough Stuff, Dan has some of the best quality around, they are good for 1-ton steering set ups. just remember to order an extra LH and RH threaded heim and carry it as a spare incase one breaks they cannot be picked up at just any store a know?
also 3/8" will work with out having to drill out the knuckles, 1/2" is stronger but requires drilling out the knuckles
also 3/8" will work with out having to drill out the knuckles, 1/2" is stronger but requires drilling out the knuckles
#3
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Originally Posted by 96_xj
get the heim's from Rough Stuff, Dan has some of the best quality around, they are good for 1-ton steering set ups. just remember to order an extra LH and RH threaded heim and carry it as a spare incase one breaks they cannot be picked up at just any store a know?
also 3/8" will work with out having to drill out the knuckles, 1/2" is stronger but requires drilling out the knuckles
also 3/8" will work with out having to drill out the knuckles, 1/2" is stronger but requires drilling out the knuckles
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x2 on dan, his stuff is top notch, anytime iv had a problem he made it right real quick and is a great all around guy.
as for the steering, youll have to drill the taper out of your knuckles, youll end up taking your steering stabilizer off, i didnt notice a difference with or without it anyways, and if you do an otk style set up say goodbye to your sway bars, those just add weight you dont need em lol.
and dont do like i did, i used 1.25 inch .120 wall dom and after about 4 trips its already bent. it may seem like over kill but if your going to actually wheel it good then get some .250 wall tube and have it threaded for a 3/4 heim
(i just came off a rock and the rock hit my tie rod thus killing it)
as for the steering, youll have to drill the taper out of your knuckles, youll end up taking your steering stabilizer off, i didnt notice a difference with or without it anyways, and if you do an otk style set up say goodbye to your sway bars, those just add weight you dont need em lol.
and dont do like i did, i used 1.25 inch .120 wall dom and after about 4 trips its already bent. it may seem like over kill but if your going to actually wheel it good then get some .250 wall tube and have it threaded for a 3/4 heim
(i just came off a rock and the rock hit my tie rod thus killing it)
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Originally Posted by sandaddik2
x2 on dan, his stuff is top notch, anytime iv had a problem he made it right real quick and is a great all around guy.
as for the steering, youll have to drill the taper out of your knuckles, youll end up taking your steering stabilizer off, i didnt notice a difference with or without it anyways, and if you do an otk style set up say goodbye to your sway bars, those just add weight you dont need em lol.
and dont do like i did, i used 1.25 inch .120 wall dom and after about 4 trips its already bent. it may seem like over kill but if your going to actually wheel it good then get some .250 wall tube and have it threaded for a 3/4 heim
(i just came off a rock and the rock hit my tie rod thus killing it)
as for the steering, youll have to drill the taper out of your knuckles, youll end up taking your steering stabilizer off, i didnt notice a difference with or without it anyways, and if you do an otk style set up say goodbye to your sway bars, those just add weight you dont need em lol.
and dont do like i did, i used 1.25 inch .120 wall dom and after about 4 trips its already bent. it may seem like over kill but if your going to actually wheel it good then get some .250 wall tube and have it threaded for a 3/4 heim
(i just came off a rock and the rock hit my tie rod thus killing it)
#7
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and to clear something up people run heims instead of tie rod ends (TRE's) not balljoints. every jeep has balljoints, they keep the knuckle on the axle
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Originally Posted by rweaver138
x2 on that
and to clear something up people run heims instead of tie rod ends (TRE's) not balljoints. every jeep has balljoints, they keep the knuckle on the axle
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I run 3/4" heims from Dan and they work great. My tie rod and drag link are 1.5" .25 wall DOM so bending isn't much of an issue. Check your local laws because they aren't legal in some places for on road use.
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Originally Posted by xjmarc
I run 3/4" heims from Dan and they work great. My tie rod and drag link are 1.5" .25 wall DOM so bending isn't much of an issue. Check your local laws because they aren't legal in some places for on road use.
#11
just be aware of the fact that heim joints are not DOT approved... therefor, TECHNICALLY, theyre not street legal. I personally could give 2 $hits becuase here in Ga., as long as it has a tag and headlights, its pretty much legal!
But I know that in certain places, they can be pretty strict with inspections and whatnot. So just know this before you make your decesion
But I know that in certain places, they can be pretty strict with inspections and whatnot. So just know this before you make your decesion
#12
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just be aware of the fact that heim joints are not DOT approved... therefor, TECHNICALLY, theyre not street legal. I personally could give 2 $hits becuase here in Ga., as long as it has a tag and headlights, its pretty much legal!
But I know that in certain places, they can be pretty strict with inspections and whatnot. So just know this before you make your decesion
But I know that in certain places, they can be pretty strict with inspections and whatnot. So just know this before you make your decesion
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You have a couple of options on mounting. Some use misalignment spacers and a long bolt on the passenger side and have both the drag link and tie rod attach there. If you use the spacers it uses a smaller bolt so be aware a 3/4 heim with spacers uses a 5/8 bolt. This can cause clearance with some wheels so measure and see if you can mount them roughly 4.5" above the knuckle. You can mount the drag link on top and the tie rod below. Or do what I did and weld a mount onto the tie rod and mount the drag link there, this options gets rid of some of the play you have with the others. Plan on relocating the track bar with the OTK setups if you drive it on the street. I still haven't and don't have bump steer but it sees very little pavement.