Clutch wont engage or disengage. Cant shift
#1
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Clutch wont engage or disengage. Cant shift
So i just purchased my first jeep. Its a 93 cherokee 5 speed on a straight six. I first noticed clutch problems whenever going into reverse it would grind. This made it evident that the clutch was not fully disengaging. I ignored the problem, but now my trans will not go into any gear. If i start the jeep in first, the clutch will not disengage, thus not allowing me to shift. I checked the master cylinder and there is fluid. I checked under the trans and there is fluid that has saturated part of the trans but it does not leak. Please help!!! Thanks
#2
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I am not 100% sure on the 93's but I would start by checking all the hydraulic lines for leaks. If you don't spot any leaks from the lines give it a good wipe down and see if you can tell where the fluid is coming from. What kind of fluid is leaking? Trans or oil? Also, if you didn't already know trans fluid is red/pinkish. The clutch fluid is pretty much clear, just DOT 3 brake fluid (if it is fresh). And of course engine oil is brown/black.
Even if there is still fluid in the Master cylinder it still could be bad and they can go out in an instant after slowly getting worse and worse one day it just stops working all together. You could also just have some air in the line somewhere.
Lots of different things really. Start with the clean up, check the lines try bleeding the clutch too. Don't panic, if it is the master cylinder it is really easy to change. Except for that stupid nut on the steel line leading from the master cylinder. Taking care of THAT thing took me longer than anything else.
If I can do it, anyone can.
Even if there is still fluid in the Master cylinder it still could be bad and they can go out in an instant after slowly getting worse and worse one day it just stops working all together. You could also just have some air in the line somewhere.
Lots of different things really. Start with the clean up, check the lines try bleeding the clutch too. Don't panic, if it is the master cylinder it is really easy to change. Except for that stupid nut on the steel line leading from the master cylinder. Taking care of THAT thing took me longer than anything else.
If I can do it, anyone can.
Last edited by NewXJaddict; 08-17-2010 at 04:17 AM.
#5
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Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Hey guys thanks for the advice. I did check under the trans where it meets the engine and it is now to a slight drip there. I was driving to get my vehicle registered today (note i had to double clutch the entire way for it to get in gear). Well at a red light the problem happened. In the middle of rush hour i managed to make it into a parking lot to check the master cylinder. No fluid. I jogged to the nearest gas station to buy some dot 3 to fill it up to make it home. I called a local shop and they want 300 to change the slave cylinder since its internally located. Ive heard this isnt a bad deal? Im also gonna have them change the clutch, put on a muffler, and change the front rotors. That should fix my issue. Jeeps gonna be outta commision for a couple days tho. Thanks again guys
#6
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0 HO
Hey guys thanks for the advice. I did check under the trans where it meets the engine and it is now to a slight drip there. I was driving to get my vehicle registered today (note i had to double clutch the entire way for it to get in gear). Well at a red light the problem happened. In the middle of rush hour i managed to make it into a parking lot to check the master cylinder. No fluid. I jogged to the nearest gas station to buy some dot 3 to fill it up to make it home. I called a local shop and they want 300 to change the slave cylinder since its internally located. Ive heard this isnt a bad deal? Im also gonna have them change the clutch, put on a muffler, and change the front rotors. That should fix my issue. Jeeps gonna be outta commision for a couple days tho. Thanks again guys
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#9
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
pilot bearing should be a given if they are a credible shop but remind them anyway cause they like to swindle people every chance they get
#10
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Year: 1990 - 2000
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Engine: 4.0
If you have good pressure on the petal, you most likely have a failed clutch. One of the springs came out of my clutch disk and jammed up the pressure plate while driving. Managed to limp home on starter and clutchless shifts.
If this is the case for yours, replage the clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and throughout bearing (built into some slave cylinders). This should fix you up. If you do it yourself, go to Autozone for the reverse torx socket for the upper two motor to transmission bolts. I used 4 feet of extensions and loosened them from the tailshaft. Everything else takes standard tools and patience.
If this is the case for yours, replage the clutch, pressure plate, slave cylinder, and throughout bearing (built into some slave cylinders). This should fix you up. If you do it yourself, go to Autozone for the reverse torx socket for the upper two motor to transmission bolts. I used 4 feet of extensions and loosened them from the tailshaft. Everything else takes standard tools and patience.
#11
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Year: 1987
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Mine did the same thing, it was the slave cylinder, its inside the bell housing, mine was 600.00 to replace, I did not have the tools or facility to pull the trans, If i had a garage i would have done it myself.
#13
Thanks a lot for all the advice. My situation is slightly different than the original post. The clutch does partially disengage just not entirely. The clutch does fully engage with the pedal all the way out. When the engine is running I am not able to put it in any gear. When the jeep is not running I can shift the transmission through all gears. Also with the jeep not running, with the pedal on the floor and in gear, the clutch still grabs enough that it will not roll on a slight hill due to gravity, but as soon as you pull it out of gear it rolls freely. When the pedal is on the floor, the engine is able to start with the transmission in gear. However if I force it (not easily) out of gear I can't get it into any gear. You can also smell the clutch disc burning while the engine is running with it in gear and pedal all the way in. My initial thought was that it seems that it wasnt getting enough pressure. However, I have replaced both the master and the slave and bled the system thoroughly, with no change. I just replaced the clutch disc, pressure plate, throw out bearing and pilot bearing when I put in the new engine one year ago. Do you think that the pilot bearing would go bad this quickly? Are all of these symptoms of a bad pilot bearing? Any other ideas out there? Thanks in advance for the help.
#14
Similar Issues
Hi,
I'm having the same exact problem in my 92 YJ. Manual transmission will not shift into gear when engine is running. Master and slave cylinders have both been replaced today and pressure is fine. The pilot bearing was replaced last week. The clutch and pressure plated seemed to be fine as well(only 3 years old). I'm all out of ideas now.
I'm having the same exact problem in my 92 YJ. Manual transmission will not shift into gear when engine is running. Master and slave cylinders have both been replaced today and pressure is fine. The pilot bearing was replaced last week. The clutch and pressure plated seemed to be fine as well(only 3 years old). I'm all out of ideas now.
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