Bleeding clutch
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: Inline 6 4.0
Bleeding clutch
Is there any special way to bleed the clutch on a 90 cherokee because i have been bleeding it for hours and it still will not give me any pedal.
#2
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Year: 94
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Did you just do a clutch job? Replace the slave cylinder?
IIRC a 90 would have an internal slave cylinder, and it's not really capable of bleeding in the normal sense. It's done simply by depressing the clutch pedal numerous times.
Are you loosing fluid?
IIRC a 90 would have an internal slave cylinder, and it's not really capable of bleeding in the normal sense. It's done simply by depressing the clutch pedal numerous times.
Are you loosing fluid?
#3
Do you hear banjos?
Push the pedal in and hold. Have a freind crack the bleeder valve, with the pedal depressed and close it with the pedal still depressed. After it's closed release the pedal and repeat, that should get her done, internal or external. HTH!!
#7
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#8
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Year: 1996
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Engine: 242 6cyl
#9
bleeding clutch on 96 cherokee sport
i need to know how to bleed the clutch on my 96 6cyl 4liter. Theres a hole where a screw should be, but nothing comes out of that hole, even my mechanic father is confused
#10
CF Veteran
Just did this.
I tried the true method of pump three times, bleed etc. To no avail.
So go the old way.
Pump the fire out of the it till you get pedal. I mean 20 or 30 times fast.
Then bleed it out. These things are similar to motorcycles in that the master cylinder moves so little fluid with each pump that its hard to force the air down there to get it out. Thus the reason for the fast pumping.
Should be good after just a couple times of this.
I tried the true method of pump three times, bleed etc. To no avail.
So go the old way.
Pump the fire out of the it till you get pedal. I mean 20 or 30 times fast.
Then bleed it out. These things are similar to motorcycles in that the master cylinder moves so little fluid with each pump that its hard to force the air down there to get it out. Thus the reason for the fast pumping.
Should be good after just a couple times of this.
#11
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Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
The way i got my YJ done finally was the same as this ^.
Only two things different.
(1)-My friend/wife/son, or whoever holds the pedal down until I say OK.
(2)-I open the bleeder & close it before the stream stops, then yell OK! Then they pump it a few times until I yell HOLD IT DOWN!
Never let the fluid in the master get too low during this, & it takes many times until it works.
Last edited by buckshot500; 07-15-2010 at 07:32 PM.
#12
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Year: 1990 - 2000
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Engine: 4.0
I would recommend bench bleeding the clutch MC before installing it. This way, it will pump fluid once installed.
Once installed, open valve, press pedal, close valve, release petal. When you are near the end, press the pedal slowly and close the valve before the pedal bottoms.
Once installed, open valve, press pedal, close valve, release petal. When you are near the end, press the pedal slowly and close the valve before the pedal bottoms.
#13
CF Veteran
If nothing come out of the hole, remove the bleeder and clean it up and dig the dirt out of it too. Then use a paperclip to make sure its free and you can blow through it.
#14
Having a similar problem with my '96 4.0L There is nothing coming out where the bleeder would appear to go. The bleeder in the old unit was totally rusted out. I replaced everything, master/slave/pipe. I do get some pedal at least enough to change gear but there is still air in there. Anyone know a part number for the bleeder screw, or at least what will fit?
Thanks
Thanks
#15
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Year: 86/91/92
Model: Comanche
The trick to getting this new style slave to bleed is to let gravity do its job. I just went through this on my MJ with a 95 XJ external slave bell housing. The slave was molded for a bleeder, but was not drilled or threaded for one. This is what I did to bleed the system.
1. Install master and the hydraulic line.
2. Attach slave to the hydraulic line but do not bolt to the bell housing.
3. Fill master with fluid.
4. Slide the slaves transportation straps out of place, but do not cut, to allow the rod to expand.
5. Hold the slave vertical, with rod pointing down and carefully push the rod in and out. Have a helper keep an eye on the master. They should see air bubbles as you manually operate the slave.
6. Keep the master full of fluid while you operate the slave until you see no more air bubbles.
7. Reinstall the plastic transportation straps and install the slave.
8. Depress clutch pedal several times and double check the masters fluid level.
1. Install master and the hydraulic line.
2. Attach slave to the hydraulic line but do not bolt to the bell housing.
3. Fill master with fluid.
4. Slide the slaves transportation straps out of place, but do not cut, to allow the rod to expand.
5. Hold the slave vertical, with rod pointing down and carefully push the rod in and out. Have a helper keep an eye on the master. They should see air bubbles as you manually operate the slave.
6. Keep the master full of fluid while you operate the slave until you see no more air bubbles.
7. Reinstall the plastic transportation straps and install the slave.
8. Depress clutch pedal several times and double check the masters fluid level.
Last edited by 87Warrior; 07-26-2012 at 05:56 PM.
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