larjerr

I believe your right, mine started working again today for awhile. Thought I was gonna be lucky and not buy that high dollar solenoid. No sooner I got happy, the light came back on, and I could feel/see the slip.

mlepesant

I replaced the #3 solenoid today. Not fun to put the pan back on for some reason. Worst part is that 2 connectors clips are broken or completely missing. I found one piece in the oil I drained. #1 connector and #3 are missing the clips and are obviously loose. I had no choice but to put everything back the same way without changing the clips. Hopefully it will last some time.
I added 3 quarts, test drove the car, and had to add almost 2 more quarts. It drives fine for now.
What's the way to fix the clips? Changing the whole harness?

larjerr

Weird... I changed my solenoid out too. I'm all good to go. I got a little scared that the exhaust pipe was in the way, but I finagled the pan out. Getting it back on, the trick is not making dirt fall in when doing the finagling in reverse.
I'm suprised you were having connector issues...seems a little odd to me. The harness is available. Probably not too unreasonable. I don't know how difficult the install would be, but probably not fun.
BTW, sounds like you were low on fluid to start with. I'm not really sure what the clips your talking about are.

mlepesant

I think i'll disconnect the downpipe and remove the crossmember. Couldn't get one screw back in in the front of the pan. I checked the harness and found it for over $300. So, I'll need to find another solution.
Fluid wise, actually I was above the max (a little concerned about that for a while) before I drained it. It just drained a lot, I don't know. But I was surprised as well by how much I had to add. Like I said I started by adding 3 quarts. The car almost wouldn't move. I added about one quart, then it worked. I test drove it for a good while, checked it and the dipstick was completely dry. I added another quart and it is now fine.

larjerr

I had a problem with one screw in the front of pan too! I just took my time, probably spent five minutes trying to get one to thread correctly. I knew if I cross threaded it I'd be in a world of crap. I could barely get my fingers on it and start it by hand.
I wonder if you cant get by with splicing a regular female spade connector on your bad connector ends.

mlepesant

Yep. I think I started cross threated this one..Stopped really fast.
I thought about using zip ties (I think I have read this here) but was worried about it melting or falling into the pan. I am investigating the junkyard option first. For now the car runs well. Hopefully it will last until the next drain and refill..

cpefy3

I know this is kind of an old thread but had a couple of questions:

1.) My 98 xj is throwing P0740 as well as P0700 (general transmission code). My trans fluid is at the correct level and in decent condition. So I suspected the Torque Converter Lock up solenoid but tested it (but cold) and got 12.5 ohms resistance, which I know is acceptable. I am curious that others have said that it can test good while cold and fail once hot. When you say hot do you mean once the engine has reached proper operating temperature?

2.) I am very illiterate when it comes to electrical equipment, I had read that the ground for the solenoids can sometimes become loose or corroded. If the ground for my TC solenoid has become loose or corroded, am I under the right understanding that the resistance would be off?

Thanks,
cpefy3

mlepesant

Well, I am so illiterate when it comes to electrical equipment that I can't tell you I am tempted to say "yes" but I am sure someone will chime in. Mine is back at the shop today, with the same codes. It started about 3 weeks ago. i tried everything I could to pinpoint the issue (did a few drain/refill, changed the lock up solenoid) but had to give up. The trans shop told my mechanic that the trans was in great shape and didn't need a rebuild, but that maybe the valve body was bad. (that got me worried because they obviously had no more clue than I did about the problem). Anyway, changed the valve body. Same. Took it back, they still believed it was the valve body; changed it again. Drove great .. for a week. Started behaving again yesterday and threw the codes. Also, while in cruise control, the rpm was very unstable (which maybe a different issue). They had talked also about the NSS possibly a culprit, or the computer. I am under the impression that a TCU or ECM can be tested. If it is just to throw parts at it then I can do that...
Anyway, sorry, long story short, when we say operating temperature it is op temperature of the transmission. About 20 minutes of driving I believe.
Sorry I can't help you. Hope you find a solution; keep us posted. Maybe it will help me before I throw thousands at it.

cpefy3

I tested my solenoids after driving my jeep on the highway for two exits and turned around and drove home (probably only a total of 15 miles if that). I immediately checked the solenoids at the connector by the transmission dipstick, and was quite surprised to get a little over 15 ohms for all the solenoids (15.4, 15.5, 15.2). I think if I would have driven further and got the transmission even hotter, the numbers could have even "grown" more. So as they are out of the acceptable range I plan on changing them as soon as funds will allow. I further think an automatic transmission cooler might be in my future to help keep the transmission fluid as cool as possible.

After reading your initial post (noting your mileage as well as your symptoms) it made me remember an article I had read in JP a couple months back.

http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...age_and_power/

They dont really say how to check this prior to removal, maybe someone else can chime in. If you think this maybe the culprit the part doesn't seem to be that expensive:

http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/TC-J30.html
(I believe that is the correct one)

I am not sure how difficult this would be to do in your driveway. Hope this helps.

cpefy3

mlepesant

Thanks for the info. I have been thinking about the TC itself. I asked the trans shop how it was, they said it was in great shape.. I still believe that could be the culprit based on how the jeep drives. What I don't understand is that it would be the 4th TC in 312k miles. It was rebuilt after 90k miles ( i bought the jeep with 85k on it) with a changed TC. The TC was changed again at 185k with a full rebuild. So obviously it is lasting me longer but still. I hear owners have their original trans with over 200k on it? Anyway, I'll talk to the shop on Monday and orient them that way, rather than on changing the NSS. I never dropped a trans so I am a little worried about doing it myself with my daily driver. If the issue persists I think I'll take the plunge.
As far as resistance when hot, that's the way my solenoids tested; exact same numbers as yours, maybe 15.8 on the OD solenoid which is the one I just changed (so, is it normal or is it because I bought a cheap stuff online? Don't know). I know that the specs are 11-15 but honestly I don't understand how all three would go out at the same time. Maybe as long as they are in there they should change them as well.
Thanks for the links. Will keep posted.

BumsModified98xj

I cant figure mine out! Could it be a internal trans problem?

kickice24

Here are the diagrams I have for 98> AW4

kickice24

Also, if you need solenoids, you can get them here cheap! I bought them and had them installed in about 45 mins. Very simple.
http://www.oemsolenoids.com/solenoid-set-a340-aw4-new/

larjerr

Hey, been following this post, I have nothing to add really but speculation. If I was in this situation, I would just for the heck off it check all my ground connections. Might be good to involve the ohmmeter. All the readings seem to be similar , but on the high side; maybe out of range. Possibly engine transmission ground is adding a little resistance? Also I forget the terminology but there is a big connector plug where most of the wiring goes through the firewall, this could be a place to check for corrosion on TCU pins so I hear.
At the very least I would clear the codes, then see if it happens again. If you get the same codes and notice the transmission not shifting into overdrive or whatever, just replace the solenoids. At 320,000 miles they're probably wore out....they do read above 15 ohms you say. I would hope if 15.1 was good they would of said so in the manual. But really I don't know. Hope this helps somehow.

BumsModified98xj

I figured it all out it was my brake pedal switch it was loose and fit sloppy in the bracket so I zip tied it and problem solved ya'll might want to check out that switch it could be telling your tcm that your braking instead of accelerating mine was so bad that I would have no O.D on my 32 mile run to work