FleXJ01

Broke all the hard line adding longer brake hoses due to rust. I have never done this job before. I rented the flare tool, and tips ? I read some where that a tubing cutter as the action will "harden" the end and make flaring more difficult ? Any thoughts... Thanks

Bustedknuckle

Well you need to cut the end off to get a good cone-shaped flare. The kit should have a tube cutting tool included. Start with very light pressure, and as you rotate the cutter, slowly apply more pressure on the blade by twisting the adjustment handle more. This will give you a nice clean cut.

As for flairing - I usually get roughly 1/8" or less of tube in the vice, then TIGHTEN it down firmly.

MAKE SURE you have the nut ALREADY on the tube too, you can't put it on after the flair.

Watch and go slowly. As you put the cone into the tube, and rotate the tool so it clasps onto the vice, keep an eye on the flair tool, make sure its standing up straight. Then just slowly work the tool downwards into the vice, creating the flair.

Always check, re-check and double check your work when done. Make sure the flair creates a nice, uniform flange around the nut before you attach it to the brake hose. Then check the heck out of it for leaks. Brakes are the last place anyone needs to cut corners.

caged

take his advice and practice on a couple scrap ends to get the confidence.

there's nothing worse than destroying the end and having to cut the end off leaving it too short.

wildbill1

If you don't want to mess with cutting and flaring, you can usually buy straight pre-made lines with the right fittings on them and bend them up yourself. You might have to use a combination of lines with couplings to get the right length.

DrShaggford

you can also use compression fittings that won't require flaring. You will need to buy sections of brake line withe the correct fitting to mate with the soft line then you join the new line with the old line using the compression fitting. I would definitely flare it as you will have less issues down the road but if you can't get the flares right it's a way to get the job done. I used them about a month ago when I removed the abs pump from my 98 so I wouldn't have to bleed the master or prop. valve and I have had 0 issues with leaking or snapping.

Norsk62

Did you also rent a bending tool? Placing the bends in the correct place without flattening the line takes practice. Try to avoid the urge to bend your lines by hand. Use the right tool to put the correct radius in the line.

Use your old brake line as a template and copy the bends from it. One other tip. Do not apply too much pressure with the flare tool. If you do, a coule of things can happen. You cal gall the the line inside that flare which will not seal, or you will split the tubing at the flare.

And last, use a double 37 deg flare, not the single flare. OEM brake lines are double flared on the ends to create a metal seal when the line is tightened against to the distribution block or portioning block. A single flare will not seal.

Take the advise from the others and use some scrap line to practice with before going for it.

DrShaggford

Also after flaring when you make your initial connection tighten it ALL the way down then back it off 1/4 turn or so then re-tighten it. This helps the flare to better form to the fitting and greatly reduces the chance for a leak.

FleXJ01

I haven't got the confidence to try yet, think I will have time tomorrow. I didn't know Autostores rent benders, I will check on that today also. thanks for all the good advice. I watched a bunch of Youtube videos on how to double flare with the same tool I rented.

Also DrShaggford, I have a ABS as well and find it more a problem then helpful. Was it tough to remove everything? thanks again guys, this is some of the best advice I have got on here to date!

DrShaggford

It was not hard at all. You have to pull the fuse and relay for it. Unplug the connector, cut all the lines, unbolt the pump and remove it. Then I used a compression fitting to join the cut line for the rear to the new rear line I ran. Then you need a T style compression fitting for the front brake lines as there are 2 separate lines for the front brakes but only one line from the prop valve. Including running and flaring a new line and bleeding the whole system it only took an hour or two. There is a really nice write up with detailed pictures but I don't remember which forum it was on. I want to say it was on NAXJA but I'm not sure. The write up can be a bit confusing but once you get the pump out everything becomes more apparent. It would also help if you pick up a couple of those rubber nipple covers for bleeder screws to block off the prop valve lines while you're working on it.

96xj4x4

lot of good advice on here on flaring and what not, just wanted to add a little trick i picked up over the years on running the brake lines if u don't have an old brake line to work from as a template

i keep a spool of really thick plumbing solder which is about 3/16'' the same as our brake lines and bend up a template using the solder, once i have it perfect with the solder i'm careful not to bend my solder template as i match the bends with the hard line. doing it this way using saves the hard lines from a lot of unnecessary bends

caged

compression fittings won't pass inspection.

kjc

Good advice Bustedknuckle.. "MAKE SURE you have the nut ALREADY on the tube too, you can't put it on after the flair." Surely no one has ever done that!! Ok, maybe i did.. once. I counted it as a practice flair.

DrShaggford

Depending on where you live there are no inspections and even then there are ways of hiding them. Like I said previously I would definitely suggest flaring first and only use the compression fittings as a way to get it done if you can't get the flares right. I will be running ALL new hardline on my 98 soon and eliminate the compression fittings.

freegdr

compression fittings kill people ...plain and simple dont use them...

freegdr

use flare unions only