00' XJ 4.0H.O Stroked to 4.7 Engine build
#47
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O soon 4.7
As far as oil/filter wise i'm using an undersized filter from napa the 15151 I think. You remove the filter adapter and it threads right in. No motor mount clearance issues. I broke it in on Brad Penn break-in oil and use Valvoline VR1 because it has a high Zinc content.
Hayden said this^
Why the undersized filter? Could you also explain why a high zinc content is preferable?
Hayden said this^
Why the undersized filter? Could you also explain why a high zinc content is preferable?
#48
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Year: 1998
Engine: 4.0L 162,000
The new oils formulated for newer cars with OHC and roller lifters is different than it was in the past. They took out most of the zinc. The zinc is like a 'cushion' for the cam and flat tappet lifters. Low zinc oils tend to cause increased wear and failure of these parts. Especially on break-in.
Keep the oil filter adapter and screw the filter on to it. Read both of these, good info.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rot...essing-188168/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/na...filter-194750/
Your head- What valves and springs did you use? what was the stock head flow vs the now ported? Improvement?
Keep the oil filter adapter and screw the filter on to it. Read both of these, good info.
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f2/rot...essing-188168/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f67/na...filter-194750/
Your head- What valves and springs did you use? what was the stock head flow vs the now ported? Improvement?
#49
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Year: 1998
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As far as oil/filter wise i'm using an undersized filter from napa the 15151 I think. You remove the filter adapter and it threads right in. No motor mount clearance issues. I broke it in on Brad Penn break-in oil and use Valvoline VR1 because it has a high Zinc content.
Hayden said this^
Why the undersized filter? Could you also explain why a high zinc content is preferable?
Hayden said this^
Why the undersized filter? Could you also explain why a high zinc content is preferable?
#50
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0, APN header & 2.5" exhaust
Well I think you probably already have most of the information. The only thing you might need to figure out is the volume of the dished pistons that you are using and that should give you a pretty good idea
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#52
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Engine: 4.0L 162,000
With your piston choice you will want your machinist to 'deck' the block about 0.025" to get to 0.000" deck height so that with a 0.041" head gasket you will have a 0.041" QUENCH with is better for detonation control and complete combustion. This will require new push rod lengths.
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With your piston choice you will want your machinist to 'deck' the block about 0.025" to get to 0.000" deck height so that with a 0.041" head gasket you will have a 0.041" QUENCH with is better for detonation control and complete combustion. This will require new push rod lengths.
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Year: 1993
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Engine: 4.0, APN header & 2.5" exhaust
With your piston choice you will want your machinist to 'deck' the block about 0.025" to get to 0.000" deck height so that with a 0.041" head gasket you will have a 0.041" QUENCH with is better for detonation control and complete combustion. This will require new push rod lengths.
#56
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So pick everything tomorrow morning. All the labor on block and crank came to 361.54 after tax. Assembly will begin shortly after 0830.
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I don't really understand the question. Do you mean to boil the engine in to clean out the inside? If so I just had my guy at the machine shop hot tank it for me which is basically what your saying. Cleans out all the old rust and stuff inside. He didn't charge much at all to do it so i would recommend having the shop guy do it.
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Year: 2000
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I don't really understand the question. Do you mean to boil the engine in to clean out the inside? If so I just had my guy at the machine shop hot tank it for me which is basically what your saying. Cleans out all the old rust and stuff inside. He didn't charge much at all to do it so i would recommend having the shop guy do it.